Recycling garments made from mixed fibres has long been one of the main challenges for the textile industry. In the absence of a chemical or mechanical process capable of effectively separating and recovering individual materials, products such as swimwear, tights or leggings typically end up being incinerated or landfilled at the end of their use phase. This issue is particularly relevant for fabrics combining polyamide and elastane, where solutions enabling economically viable fibre-level recycling have so far been lacking.
Radici InNova, the RadiciGroup unit responsible for research and innovation, has developed a recycling process based on selective dissolution technology that enables the treatment of textile waste from fibre blends and the recovery of both polyamide and Lycra fibres. The recovered materials can then be reused for the production of new textile products. Cooperation with The Lycra Company and the Triumph brand has allowed for the practical validation of this technology by producing an underwear set made entirely from recycled polyamide and Lycra fibres in a closed-loop system.
The process, protected by an international patent, uses non-toxic, non-flammable and environmentally compatible solvents. It can be applied to the main polyamide types used in the textile industry, namely PA6 and PA66. An important feature of the solution is the ability to recover both polyamide and Lycra fibres regardless of their relative proportions in the fabric structure, as well as to recover and reuse the solvent itself. From an industrial perspective, this translates into economic feasibility and the potential for further scale-up of the process.
"Thanks to this project, textile recycling enters a new dimension, demonstrating for the first time that it is possible to recover fibers from mixed fabrics and reuse them to produce new garments. This is an unprecedented innovation that opens up revolutionary development opportunities for the textile industry. As RadiciGroup, we are proud to have conceived and achieved this important milestone together with our partners, and we are ready to take the next steps," said Stefano Alini, CEO of Radici InNova.
Selective dissolution technology for fibre blends
The developed solution is based on the selective dissolution of the fabric components, which enables separation and subsequent recovery of individual material streams. The technology has been designed for application to blends containing different types of polyamide and Lycra fibres. The use of low-toxicity, non-flammable solvents is important for both operational safety and the environmental footprint of the process. In addition, solvent recovery and reuse reduces the consumption of fresh chemicals.
The process can be applied to materials containing polyamide 6 and polyamide 66, which covers the main group of raw materials used in products such as underwear, sportswear and swimwear. A key feature is the ability to recover both textile components regardless of their percentage in the fabric structure. In traditional approaches, the mixed composition of a material often prevents economically viable recycling, leading to such waste being treated as non-recyclable.
The new Radici InNova solution enables the conversion of textile waste into high-quality secondary raw materials that can be reintroduced into standard spinning processes. In this way, a potential waste stream is turned into a resource and the material loop can be closed within the textile sector.
The role of Lycra fibres in a closed-loop system
The project also demonstrated that elastane can play an important role in a circular model for apparel products. As part of the cooperation, The Lycra Company received samples of recovered Lycra fibres in order to assess their suitability for re-spinning and to verify performance parameters.
"This innovative project highlights the role that elastane can have in helping to advance circularity in the apparel industry. Working closely with Radici InNova and Triumph, The LYCRA Company has demonstrated that LYCRA fibers can retain their renowned stretch and recovery performance - providing comfort, fit and ease of movement - even when reintegrated into the spinning cycle," commented Nicholas Kurland, Product Development Director, Advanced Concepts The Lycra Company.
Confirming that recycled fibres can maintain the required levels of elasticity and durability is crucial for further use of the technology in products where mechanical properties are essential. In stretch garments, including underwear and sportswear, stable fit and resistance to repeated use are expected, which has so far been a barrier to the use of secondary raw materials.
Process validation with Triumph
Work on the project began four years ago, when Radici InNova initiated research on a new process for dissolving and separating mixed textile fibres. Following the initial development phase, tests made it possible to recover the first samples of Lycra fibres from multi-material fabrics. These samples were then sent to The Lycra Company to verify their recyclability and suitability for reuse in spinning.
The next stage focused on practical proof of feasibility. Triumph provided its own production surplus, a fabric containing 16% Lycra fibres. From this material, Radici InNova succeeded in recovering both Lycra fibres and polyamide. The recovered Lycra fibres were re-spun by The Lycra Company, while RadiciGroup processed the recycled polyamide into Renycle yarn.
From the two recycled yarn streams, Lycra fibres and Renycle yarn, 60 meters of black fabric were produced. Triumph used this material to manufacture an underwear set consisting of a bra and briefs, providing evidence of the possibility to close the material loop from textile waste to new garments. The result achieved so far is regarded as a prototype, a concept garment intended to demonstrate the technical feasibility of recycling mixed textiles and to lay the groundwork for the future industrialisation of the process.
Development prospects and next steps
The project conducted by Radici InNova, The Lycra Company and Triumph is currently at an early development stage, but the partners are already defining further actions. From the perspective of the textile industry, a key task will be the transition from concept validation to process scaling, taking into account technical and organisational aspects, including systems for collection and sorting of textile waste.
"Although still in its early stages, Triumph is proud to contribute to this pioneering initiative and to explore the potential of this innovative recycling technology for future applications. Our next step will focus on developing a capsule collection, while also working on solutions to ensure product identification, traceability and circularity systems, so that garments can remain in use for as long as possible and, once they reach the end of their life, can be recycled in the most appropriate way. At Triumph, we are committed to promoting innovation and collaboration in the field of sustainability. Being part of this project strengthens our belief that circularity for garments made from mixed textile fibers is possible, and we are proud to help turn this vision into reality," said Vera Galarza, Global Head of Sustainability – Triumph.
The developed and validated selective dissolution process for fibre blends and the closed chain from textile waste to finished underwear demonstrate the potential for new recycling models in the textile sector. Further work will be needed to optimise process parameters, assess environmental and economic performance and build partnerships across the value chain that will enable industrialisation of the solution and its wider application in apparel production.
